Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Hacking BIOS Password

Hack BIOS Password

Turn the PC off (this means a total shutdown, not merely standby or hibernate mode) and disconnect the AC power cord.

Remove the cover from your system (this step may require tools, undoing a thumbscrew, or flipping a latch or two).

Refer to the user manual for the motherboard to find out how to "reset CMOS" memory. You may also find a label for specific jumper or switch settings marked on the system board.

Change the switch setting or jumper position to a specific position or remove the jumper entirely as prescribed in the manual to clear or reset the CMOS memory.

Wait 20-30 seconds for the memory to clear out from lack of power.

After 20-30 seconds put the switch or jumper the way it was before for normal use.

Reconnect the power cord and start up the system to see if the settings have changed to defaults.

Shut the PC down, disconnect the power cord, replace the cover, reconnect the power, and power up the PC.

Enter the BIOS setup program to configure the system as needed. This may include setting the date and time, selecting disk drive parameters, and selecting which devices the system uses to boot up with first.

Unlock IDEA NET SETTER

Now a days most of us are using data cards of various companies and one of them is IDEA NETSETTER.
Today I’m going to tell, how you can use any other SIM in IDEA NET SETTER and then you can access upto 2mbps via that USB Net setter
Netsetter is using a Huawei modem
Step 1 : Download UNIVERSAL MASTER CODE (software) by THL
Step 2 : Now take your USB modem and see its back , you will see a 15 digit number and that’s your modem’s IMEI number .
Open notepad and type that IMEI no.
Step 3 : Now double click on the downloaded file of Universal Master Code and extract it then click on Universal Master Code.exe
Step 4 : In the IMEI number field of Universal Master Codetype , enter the IMEI number which you have already typed in notepad and press calculate.
It will generate a flash and unlock code.
Step 5 : Now connect your USB IDEA net setter and install net setter software from there and run it and also put a non IDEA SIM.
It will ask you for unlock code , also it will show u have 10 attempts ,simply put the unlock code generated from universal master code
And press enter while u have unlocked your IDEA net setter
Now for creating new profile go to Tools > Options > Profile Management and click new
Type APN supported by your sim (eg – for BSNL use bsnlnet as apn  ) , leave everything as it is and you can connect easily after that. Enjoy !! :)

Nokia Mobile Phone HACK Codes

1.  Imagine ur cell battery is very low, u r expecting an important call and u don’t have a charger.
     Nokia instrument comes with a reserve battery. To activate, key is “*3370#”
     Ur cell will restart with this reserve and ur instrument will show a 50% increase in battery.
     This reserve will get charged when u charge ur cell next time.
     *3370# Activate Enhanced Full Rate Codec (EFR)-Your phone uses the best sound quality but talk time    is reduced by approx 5%
     #3370# Deactivate Enhanced Full Rate Codec( EFR)
     *#4720# Activate Half Rate Codec – Your phone uses a lower quality sound but you should gain approx 30% more Talk Time
     *#4720# Deactivate Half Rate Codec
2.  *#0000# Displays your phones software version,
      1st Line :  Software Version,
      2nd Line : Software Release Date,
      3rd Line : Compression Type
3.  *#9999# Phones software version if *#0000# does not work.
4.  *#06# For checking the International Mobile Equipment Identity (IMEI Number).
5.  #pw+1234567890+1# Provider Lock Status. (use the “*” button to obtain the “p,w” and “+” symbols).
6.  #pw+1234567890+2# Network Lock Status. (use the “*” button to obtain the “p,w” and “+” symbols).
7.  #pw+1234567890+3# Country Lock Status. (use the “*” button to obtain the “p,w” and “+” symbols).
8.  #pw+1234567890+4# SIM Card Lock Status.(use the “*” button to obtain the “p,w” and “+” symbols).
9.  *#147# (vodafone) this lets you know who called you last *#1471# Last call (Only vodofone).
10.  *#21# Allows you to check the number that “All Calls” are diverted to.
11.  *#2640# Displays security code in use.
12.  *#30# Lets you see the private number.
13.  *#43# Allows you to check the “Call Waiting” status of your phone.
14.  *#61# Allows you to check the number that “On No Reply” calls are diverted to.
15.  *#62# Allows you to check the number that “Divert If Unreachable(no service)” calls are diverted to.
16.  *#67# Allows you to check the number that “On Busy Calls” are diverted to.
17.  *#67705646# removes operator logo on 3310 & 3330
18.  *#73# Reset phone timers and game scores
19.  *#746025625# Displays the SIM Clock status, if your phone supports this power saving feature “SIM Clock Stop Allowed”, it means you will get the best standby time possible
20.  *#7760# Manufactures code
21.  *#7780# Restore factory settings
22.  *#8110# Software version for the nokia 8110
23.  *#92702689# (to remember *#WARRANTY#)
      Displays -
      1. Serial Number,
      2.Date Made
      3.Purchase Date,
      4.Date of last repair (0000 for no repairs),
      5.Transfer User Data.
      To exit this mode -you need to switch your phone off then on again
24.  *#94870345123456789# Deactivate the PWM-Mem
25.  **21*number# Turn on “All Calls” diverting to the phone number entered
26.  **61*number# Turn on “No Reply” diverting to the phone number entered
27.  **67*number# Turn on “On Busy” diverting to the phone number entered
  Each command is prefixed with either one or two * or # characters as follows:
   ** Register and Activate
   * Activate  
    ## De-Register (and Deactivate)
    # Deactivate
    *# Check Status
    © Call button
Once each command has been entered, if it is a network command (as opposed to a local handset command) it must be transmitted to the network by pressing the YES (receiver) key which acts as an enter key – this is represented here with the © character. Always enter numbers in full international format +CountryAreaNumber ( e.g. +447712345678).
Security
Change call barring code **03*OldCode*NewCode*NewCode#©
Change call barring code **03*330*OldCode*NewCode*NewCode#©
Change PIN code **04*OldPIN*NewPIN*NewPIN#©
Change PIN2 code **042*OldPIN2*NewPIN2*NewPIN2#©
Unlock PIN code (when PIN is entered wrong 3 times) **05*PUK*NewPIN*NewPIN#©
Unlock PIN2 code (when PIN2 is entered wrong 3 times) **052*PUK2*NewPIN2*NewPIN2#©
Display IMEI *#06#
Call Forwarding (Diversions)
De-register all call diversions ##002#©
Set all configured call diversions to number and activate **004*number#©
De-register all configured call diversions (no answer, not reachable, busy) ##004#©
Unconditionally divert all calls to number and activate **21*number#©
Activate unconditionally divert all calls *21#©
De-register unconditionally divert all calls ##21#©
Deactivate unconditionally divert all calls #21#©
Check status of unconditionally divert all calls *#21#©
Divert on no answer to number and activate **61*number#©
Activate divert on no answer *61#©
De-register divert on no answer ##61#©
Deactivate divert on no answer #61#©
Check status of divert on no answer *#61#©
Divert on not reachable to number and activate **62*number#©
Activate divert on not reachable *62#©
De-register divert on not reachable ##62#©
Deactivate divert on not reachable #62#©
Check status of divert on not reachable *#62#©
Divert on busy to number and activate  **67*number#©
Activate divert on busy *67#©
De-register divert on busy ##67#©
Deactivate divert on busy #67#©
Check status of divert on busy *#67#©
Change number of seconds of ringing for the given service before diverting a call (such as on no answer). Seconds must be a value from 5 to 30. De-registering the same divert will also delete this change! **service*number**seconds#© (Service numbers, see below)
Call barring
Activate barring all outgoing calls (see Security to set code) **33*code#©
Deactivate barring all outgoing calls #33*code#©
Check status of barring all outgoing calls *#33#©
Activate barring all calls **330*code#©
Deactivate barring all calls #330*code#©
Check status of barring all calls *#330*code#©
Activate barring all outgoing international calls **331*code#©
Deactivate barring all outgoing international calls #331*code#©
Check status of barring all outgoing international calls *#331#©
Activate barring all outgoing international calls except to home country **332*code#©
Deactivate barring all outgoing international calls except to home country #332*code#©
Check status of barring all outgoing international calls except to home country *#332#©
Activate barring all outgoing calls **333*code#©
Deactivate barring all outgoing calls #333*code#©
Check status of barring all outgoing calls *#333#©
Activate barring all incoming calls **35*code#©
Deactivate barring all incoming calls #35*code#©
Check status of barring all incoming calls *#35#©
Activate barring all incoming calls when roaming **351*code#©
Deactivate barring all incoming calls when roaming #351*code#©
Check status of barring all incoming calls when roaming *#351#©
Activate barring all incoming calls **353*code#©
Deactivate barring all incoming calls #353*code#©
Check status of barring all incoming calls *#353#©
Call waiting
Activate call waiting *43*#©
Deactivate call waiting #43##©
Check status of call waiting *#43#©
Calling Line Identification
The following only works if CLIP and CLIR are enabled (ask your service provider)
CLIP: Presentation of the number of the incoming call
Activate CLIP **30#©
Deactivate CLIP ##30#©
Check status of CLIP *#30#©
CLIR: Presentation of one’s own number to the to the called party
Activate CLIR **31#©
Activate CLIR for the actual call *31#number©
Deactivate CLIR ##31#©
Deactivate CLIR for the actual call #31#number©
Check status of CLIR *#31#©
COLP: Presentation of the actual number reached (if number called was diverted to another number
Activate COLP *76#©
Deactivate COLP #76#©
Check status of COLP *#76#©
COLR: Presentation of the original number called by the calling party (if the call was diverted to this cellphone)
Activate COLR *77#©
Deactivate COLR #77#©
Check status of COLR *#77#©

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Secure Your Home Wi-Fi Network

Secure Your Home Wi-Fi Network

Secure Your Home Wi-Fi NetworkTech site Ars Technica runs down the basics of securing your home wireless network with the most secure and up-to-date methods. The main takeaway is that when you enable encryption on your wireless router, use WPA encryption instead of WEP, because it's better and stronger.
Unlike WEP, WPA uses a 48-bit initialization vector and a 128-bit encryption key. More importantly, however, WPA uses what's called the Temporary Key Integrity Protocol (TKIP). Whereas WEP recycles the same key for encrypting all the packets flowing across the network, WPA's TKIP changes the encryption key every single time a packet is transmitted. This, combined with the use of longer keys, prevents a hacker from compromising a router simply by passively observing a large enough set of packet transmissions.

How to Crack a Wi-Fi Network’s WEP Password with BackTrack


How to Crack a Wi-Fi Network’s WEP Password with BackTrack

You already know that if you want to lock down your Wi-Fi network, you should opt for WPA encryption because WEP is easy to crack. But did you know how easy? Take a look.
Note: This post demonstrates how to crack WEP passwords, an older and less often used network security protocol. If the network you want to crack is using the more popular WPA encryption, see our guide to cracking a Wi-Fi network's WPA password with Reaver instead.
Today we're going to run down, step-by-step, how to crack a Wi-Fi network with WEP security turned on. But first, a word: Knowledge is power, but power doesn't mean you should be a jerk, or do anything illegal. Knowing How to pick a lock doesn't make you a thief. Consider this post educational, or a proof-of-concept intellectual exercise.
Dozens of tutorials on how to crack WEP are already all over the internet using this method. Seriously—Google it. This ain't what you'd call "news." But what is surprising is that someone like me, with minimal networking experience, can get this done with free software and a cheap Wi-Fi adapter. Here's how it goes.

 

What You'll Need

Unless you're a computer security and networking ninja, chances are you don't have all the tools on hand to get this job done. Here's what you'll need:
  • A compatible wireless adapter—This is the biggest requirement. You'll need a wireless adapter that's capable of packet injection, and chances are the one in your computer is not. After consulting with my friendly neighborhood security expert, I purchased an Alfa AWUS050NH USB adapter, pictured here, and it set me back about $50 on Amazon. Update: Don't do what I did. Get the Alfa AWUS036H, not the US050NH, instead. The guy in this video below is using a $12 model he bought on Ebay (and is even selling his router of choice). There are plenty of resources on getting aircrack-compatible adapters out there.
  • A BackTrack Live CD. We already took you on a full screenshot tour of how to install and use BackTrack 3, the Linux Live CD that lets you do all sorts of security testing and tasks. Download yourself a copy of the CD and burn it, or load it up in VMware to get started.
  • A nearby WEP-enabled Wi-Fi network. The signal should be strong and ideally people are using it, connecting and disconnecting their devices from it. The more use it gets while you collect the data you need to run your crack, the better your chances of success.
  • Patience with the command line. This is an ten-step process that requires typing in long, arcane commands and waiting around for your Wi-Fi card to collect data in order to crack the password. Like the doctor said to the short person, be a little patient.

Crack That WEP

To crack WEP, you'll need to launch Konsole, BackTrack's built-in command line. It's right there on the taskbar in the lower left corner, second button to the right. Now, the commands.
First run the following to get a list of your network interfaces:
airmon-ng
The only one I've got there is labeled ra0. Yours may be different; take note of the label and write it down. From here on in, substitute it in everywhere a command includes (interface).
Now, run the following four commands. See the output that I got for them in the screenshot below.

airmon-ng stop (interface)
ifconfig (interface) down
macchanger --mac 00:11:22:33:44:55 (interface)
airmon-ng start (interface)


 If you don't get the same results from these commands as pictured here, most likely your network adapter won't work with this particular crack. If you do, you've successfully "faked" a new MAC address on your network interface, 00:11:22:33:44:55.

Now it's time to pick your network. Run:
airodump-ng (interface)
To see a list of wireless networks around you. When you see the one you want, hit Ctrl+C to stop the list. Highlight the row pertaining to the network of interest, and take note of two things: its BSSID and its channel (in the column labeled CH), as pictured below. Obviously the network you want to crack should have WEP encryption (in the ENC) column, not WPA or anything else.
Like I said, hit Ctrl+C to stop this listing. (I had to do this once or twice to find the network I was looking for.) Once you've got it, highlight the BSSID and copy it to your clipboard for reuse in the upcoming commands.

Now we're going to watch what's going on with that network you chose and capture that information to a file. Run:
airodump-ng -c (channel) -w (file name) --bssid (bssid) (interface)
Where (channel) is your network's channel, and (bssid) is the BSSID you just copied to clipboard. You can use the Shift+Insert key combination to paste it into the command. Enter anything descriptive for (file name). I chose "yoyo," which is the network's name I'm cracking.


You'll get output like what's in the window in the background pictured below. Leave that one be. Open a new Konsole window in the foreground, and enter this command:
aireplay-ng -1 0 -a (bssid) -h 00:11:22:33:44:55 -e (essid) (interface)
Here the ESSID is the access point's SSID name, which in my case is yoyo. What you want to get after this command is the reassuring "Association successful" message with that smiley face.


You're almost there. Now it's time for:
aireplay-ng -3 -b (bssid) -h 00:11:22:33:44:55 (interface)
Here we're creating router traffic to capture more throughput faster to speed up our crack. After a few minutes, that front window will start going crazy with read/write packets. (Also, I was unable to surf the web with the yoyo network on a separate computer while this was going on.) Here's the part where you might have to grab yourself a cup of coffee or take a walk. Basically you want to wait until enough data has been collected to run your crack. Watch the number in the "#Data" column—you want it to go above 10,000. (Pictured below it's only at 854.)
Depending on the power of your network (mine is inexplicably low at -32 in that screenshot, even though the yoyo AP was in the same room as my adapter), this process could take some time. Wait until that #Data goes over 10k, though—because the crack won't work if it doesn't. In fact, you may need more than 10k, though that seems to be a working threshold for many.


Once you've collected enough data, it's the moment of truth. Launch a third Konsole window and run the following to crack that data you've collected:
aircrack-ng -b (bssid) (file name-01.cap)
Here the filename should be whatever you entered above for (file name). You can browse to your Home directory to see it; it's the one with .cap as the extension.
If you didn't get enough data, aircrack will fail and tell you to try again with more. If it succeeds, it will look like this:

The WEP key appears next to "KEY FOUND." Drop the colons and enter it to log onto the network.

Problems Along the Way

With this article I set out to prove that cracking WEP is a relatively "easy" process for someone determined and willing to get the hardware and software going. I still think that's true, but unlike the guy in the video below, I had several difficulties along the way. In fact, you'll notice that the last screenshot up there doesn't look like the others—it's because it's not mine. Even though the AP which I was cracking was my own and in the same room as my Alfa, the power reading on the signal was always around -30, and so the data collection was very slow, and BackTrack would consistently crash before it was complete. After about half a dozen attempts (and trying BackTrack on both my Mac and PC, as a live CD and a virtual machine), I still haven't captured enough data for aircrack to decrypt the key.
So while this process is easy in theory, your mileage may vary depending on your hardware, proximity to the AP point, and the way the planets are aligned. Oh yeah, and if you're on deadline—Murphy's Law almost guarantees it won't work if you're on deadline.